Fabric Glossary

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A

Acetate	A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is cellulose.
Acrylic	A man made fiber- soft wool-like hand - good wash (usually can be machine washed and dried) and wear performance - good wrinkle resistance. Commonly used for sweaters. Takes color well.
A-line	Dress or skirt style flaring gently from under arms or waist to bottom of skirt, resembling the letter A. Fitted at top with a flared bottom.
Angora (an-gohr-ah)	A specialty wool fiber (goat) used for knitted goods of soft cashmere like hand, very fuzzy.
Applique (ap-luh-kay)	Material that is cut and sewn (many times with embroidery) or fastened to the fabric to create a design. Decoration made by cutting material and applying to another surface. B
Batiste (buh-teest)	A sheer, fine, usually combed cotton, plain weave fabric.
Blouson (blue-son)	Bloused top garment fitted at the waist. Shirt or dress w/fitted waistband over which fabric blouses.
Boiled Wool	Any knit or woven wool fabric boiled before the construction of the garment; this process shrinks the fibers and makes them tighter, giving the garment more warmth and elasticity. Not really boiled, but steamed at high heat.
Broadcloth	This is a fine, tightly woven plain weave fabric-usually cotton or a cotton blend.
Bouclé (boo-clay)	Fabric with a loopy, curly surface. Bouclé yarn can be acrylic, cotton, silk, linen, wool or a blend.
Brocade	A rich heavy jacquard-woven fabric with raised floral or figured patterns emphasized by contrasting surfaces or colors. C
Camel Hair	Hair yielded from a crossbreed (Arabian one hump and Asian two hump) of camels known as "Bactrian" The combination of both is heat and cold resistant. Soft hand, warm, lightweight.
Capri pants	Also known as cropped pants are three quarter length pants sometimes with a short slit on the outside of the leg.
CB Length	Length from center back neck seam or edge to bottom of hem edge on a garment. Also from center back neck bone to bottom hem edge to show where garment falls on body.
Cashmere (kash-meer)	It is the wool of the Kashmir goat, noted for its softness. Cashmere is an expensive luxury fiber and can be blended with wool or man-made fibers to lower the cost.
Challis (shal-lee)	A very soft, supple lightweight, plain weave fabric made of cotton, wool, or rayon blends. Usually used for skirts and dresses because it drapes well. Soft hand, lightweight and warm.
Chambray (sham-bray)	Derived from Cambrai, France; a plain weave, yarn dyed, cotton or blend fabric made with a colored warp and white filling.
Charmeuse (shar-mooz)	A lightweight fabric that is soft and drapes well. It is smooth and has a semi-lustrous satin finish and a dull back. Can be polyester or silk.
Chemise (shem-eez)	Straight cut dress with few darts and no waistline. Relaxed fitting dress that hangs straight or slightly fitted.
Chenille (shehn-eel)	A fuzzy yarn whose pile resembles a caterpillar.
Chevron Weave	See "Herringbone Twill"
Chiffon (shif-fahn)	A very light weight sheer silk or man made fabric. The fabric is delicate but relatively strong - primarily used for dressy dresses, blouses, scarves and veils.
Color blocking	The colors and/or design of the garment are separate pieces of fabric which have been stitched together. Use of different 'blocks' of color within one garment to form a pattern using color.
Corduroy (kohr-duh-roy)	A pile fabric with ribs, called wales, running lengthwise down the fabric. These wales may vary in width from fine 'pinwales' to a 'wide wale'. Sometimes called 8 wale or 12 wale. This means there are 8 wales per inch, or 12 per inch. The higher the count, the finer the corduroy. Ours is usually cut nap, down or smooth side down.
Cotton	A soft natural fiber obtained from the seedpod of the cotton plant and is one of the major fashion fibers in the textile industry due to it's versatility.
Cotswold Wool	Wool derived from the almost extinct cotswold sheep native of Gloucester, England. It has a low shrinkage rate and a harsh, crisp hand.
Crepe	A general classification of fabrics that is characterized by a broad range of crinkled or grained surface effects. The texture is created by twisted or crimped yarns.
Crepe de Chine (crape-duh-sheen)	A soft, fine but opaque, lightweight fabric with a textured surface. Usually polyester, silk or wool often used for blouses or dresses.
Crinkle Cotton	A uniform wrinkled or puckered effect in woven cotton fabric. (Can also be other fibers).
Culottes	Skorts with a full pant-like leg, usually pleated at waist to achieve the full leg. D
Damask	A jacquard woven fabric with elaborate floral or geometric patterns woven into it. Also known as gaucho's or split skirt.
Denim	A well known basic cotton or twill fabric generally dyed blue with a white filling, sometimes mixed with lycra for comfort. Denim is versatile and durable.
Dirndl skirt (durn-del)	A full skirt drawn together around waist. A skirt gathered or softly pleated at the waist. Soft and full - usually made with fabrics that drape well.
Distressed	Fabric or item that is deliberately treated to give it the effect of age.
Dobby Weave	Small geometric figures are woven in as a regular pattern.
Dolman sleeves	Sleeves that are very wide at the armhole and narrow at the wrist.
Double Knit	A knit fabric that is more stable and substantial than single knit fabrics - it is the same on both sides. Double knits have a soft, smooth feel. Holds its shape, resists wrinkles, non-clinging.
Doupioni Silk (doo-pee-ohn-ee)	Woven, irregular rough silk. Results in a rich textured fabric.
Drop Shoulder	Shoulder seam sits slightly off shoulder edge. Relaxed fitting garments often have dropped shoulder's. E
Embroidery (ehm-broy-duh-ree)	Ornamental needlework consisting of designs worked on fabric either by hand or machine.
Eyelet	A fabric which is characterized by cut-out areas that have embroidery around them. F
Faggoting	An open work embroidery stitch that may run in either a zigzag line or in a ladder effect usually joining the seams of lightweight fabrics.
Faux (fo)	Imitation. Used commonly with pearl.
Flanged shoulder	A projecting pleat at the edge of the armhole.
Flannel	A light to medium weight fabric with a slightly napped surface. Woven with either woolen or worsted yarns or with wool combined with cotton, rayon and other man-made fibers.
Fleece	A synthetic knit fabric that has a cozy, plush surface. Fleece is warm yet lightweight and easy-care.
Float	A dress which falls free from the shoulders and neckline with full sweep at the hem giving it a full silhouette.
Foulard (foo-lahrd)	Popular for neckties and scarves, a foulard print refers to small repetitive patterns like those used traditionally on men's neckties.
Frog closing	A decorative closing using cording or braid through which a soft ball of cording is pulled through as a button.
Furblend	A blended yarn containing a large percentage of lambs wool in combination with angora and nylon. Used for sweaters. G
Gabardine (gab-uhr-deen)	A durable, closely woven worsted wool fabric with defined or pronounced diagonal ridges. Can also be made of polyester, rayon or cotton.
Gauze (gawz)	A thin, sheer, open irregular weave fabric usually made of cotton.
Georgette Crepe	A sheer light weight plain weave silk or manufactured fabric with a fine crepe surface.
Glen plaid	A popular Scottish pattern for suiting and sportswear characterized by two plaids of different sizes. H
Harris Tweed	A very durable tweed wool fabric spun, dyed and hand-woven in the Outer Herbrides of Scotland.
Henley neck	Round neckline with front placket opening and buttons, edged with ribbing. Named for crew racing shirts worn at Henley, England.
Herringbone Twill	A broken twill weave constructed of vertical sections that are alternately left-hand and right-hand in direction resembling a fish back bone.
Homespun	Originally fabrics with a plain weave, loosely constructed, and with uneven yarns woven on hand looms. This is now imitated in machine-made fabrics.
Honeycomb Texture	A cellular or waffle appearance on fabric sometimes called 'waffle cloth'.
Hopsacking	A polyester, wool blend, cotton, linen or rayon fabric woven with a basketweave effect to achieve a lightweight seasonless fabric.
Hound's-tooth Check	A pointed check effect produced by two up, two down twill and yarns of contrasting colors. I
Intarsia (ihn-tahr-see-uh)	A pattern knitted in a different colors and inlaid in a solid color. Usually this detail is seen in sweaters. The pattern is made of isolated blocks of color instead of a continual pattern. J
Jabot (ja-bo)	A trimming or lace frill or cascade of ruffles down the front of a blouse or dress.
Jacquard (ja-kard)	A fabric with a motif or design worked into the fabric for the full width of the fabric. Can be a woven or knitted fabric. This weaving technique is used for brocade, damask and tapestries.
Jumper	Sleeveless and collarless dress usually worn over a contrasting blouse or sweater. K
Knit	General term for process of inter-lacing rows of loops either by hand or machine.
Knife pleats	Narrow, pressed in pleats. L
Lace	Openwork fabric produced by a network of threads twisted together and sometimes knotted to form patterns.
Lamé (la-may)	Any fabric made with flat metallic yarns.
Linen (lin-nuhn)	Linen is one of the oldest natural textile fibers known - it is a product of the flax plant. Known for it's crisp hand and natural appearance.
Lurex	A trade name for fabric made of metallic yarns.
Lycra (lye-kruh)	Trade name of an elastic yarn that has excellent stretch and recovery properties. Usually combined with other fibers to impart stretch and comfort properties. M
Madras (mad-rass)	A fabric made of fine cotton, hand loomed and imported from Madras, India. Not always a plaid. Traditionally, it has been dyed with bleeding vegetable dyes. Dyes today are permanent.
Mandarin collar	A standing-band collar usually with ends not quite meeting in front.
Marled Yarn	A novelty yarn spun from different colors. Usually there are two or more solid yarns of different colors twisted together for the marled effect.
Matka	A textile fabric using yarns variegated in thickness, giving the fabric a hand-woven appearance. Often woven from silk.
Melton	A completely smooth plain cloth woven tightly and having the shortest nap. Originally all wool, presently also made with other combinations of manufacturer fibers. Can be woven or knit.
Merino Wool (mair-ihn-noh)	High quality wool yarn made from fleece of Merino sheep. When woven it becomes a fine soft fabric this is strong, resilient and takes dyes well.
Microfiber	A fine fiber used to produce lightweight soft fabrics. Can be polyester or nylon. Can be found in woven and fleece products. Micro refers to the diameter of the yarn - meaning very fine.
Mohair	A soft and resilient fiber from the Mohair goat, which is light and fluffy to the touch, providing much more warmth in proportion to its weight.
Moiré (mwaah-ray)	A lightweight to medium weight fabric with a fine crosswise rib. It is noted for its water-embossed pattern. N
Nylon	A man-made fiber. Characteristics include high strength, elasticity, abrasion/rot/mildew resistant, low water absorption, quick drying, and resistant to chemicals. O
Oxford Cloth	A basket weave or plain weave fabric made of cotton or a cotton blend. It has a lustrous, soft finish. Usually used for tailored shirts. P
Paisley Pattern	An Oriental print pattern which is shaped like a teardrop rounded at one end with a point at the other - the inside of the teardrop contains many abstract designs.
Peachskin	A descriptive term for the 'hand' (feel) of some fabrics made with microfibers. Fabric has been mechanically brushed for a sueded hand.
Peplum	Small flounce or extension of a garment around hips, usually from the bodice.
Pima Cotton (pee-mah)	A very fine long staple cotton. Has smooth soft hand.
Pinpoint Oxford	A much finer weave, cotton oxford cloth. Beautiful hand. Usually worn as a dress shirt.
Pintucking	Narrow, sewn-down pleats, usually on front of a blouse or bodice of a dress.
Piqué (pee-kay)	Fabric woven with small, raised geometric patterns. It is usually made of cotton or a blend and is a crisp fabric of medium to heavy weight. Piqué may also be a knit using similar textured patterns.
Plaid	Commonly used to describe the tartan pattern of colored stripes or bars that cross each other at right angles forming squares.
Plissé	A cotton fabric that has been chemically shrunk in stripes, creating a rippled effect. In French, means crinkled or pleated.
Polyester	A man-made fiber whose characteristics are crease-resistant, quick drying and shape retention. Often blended with natural fibers to impart stability and strength.
Ponté	A non-jacquard double knit fabric made on an interlock basis resulting in a fabric that is generally firm and very stable.
Poodle Cloth	Fabric, both woven and knitted, with a curly knap or pile made in imitation of a coat of a poodle dog.
Poplin (pahp-lihn)	Durable, plain weave fabric similar to broadcloth but heavier.
Princess seams	A fitted dress with flared skirt styled without a waistline seam and cut in six different panels from the shoulders to the hem. Vertical seams down a bodice or skirt decorative or for fitting and shaping purposes. Q R
Raglan	A sleeve that extends to neckline, set in by seams slanting the underarm front and back.
Ramie (ray-mee)	A strong, lustrous natural fiber from the ramie plant. (similar to linen). Strong and durable and slightly more coarse than linen.
Ratine (rat-in-ee)	A plain weave loosely constructed fabric with a rough, nubby surface. Usually made from cotton or silk.
Rayon (ray-ahn)	A natural fiber composed of cellulose as well as other manufactured fibers. Its soft, pleasant hand or feel and good draping qualities characterize this fabric. It takes color well.
Ribbed	Usually a straight, raised cord or ridge extending across the length or width of the fabric. S
Sailcloth	A heavy, strong, plain weave fabric usually of all cotton or cotton/polyester.
Satin (sat-ihn)	A smooth lustrous woven fabric made of silk or other fibers such as polyester.
Seedstitch	A knit stitch with a subtle, slightly nubby texture.
Seersucker	A lightweight woven fabric usually made with alternating stripes of plain and slightly puckered stripes or plaids. Thought of as a summer fabric.
Set-in-sleeve	Any type of sleeve which is sewed into the natural armhole.
Sequin	A general category of flat, ornamental disks applied to fabric as decoration. This is also known as 'Spangle'.
Shaker Knit	A Rib knit fabric often used for casual sweaters. Non-clinging.
Shantung	A rough, plain weave fabric made of uneven yarns to produce a textured effect, particularly evidenced in occasional thicker yarns or long slubs in the filling. Usually made from silk, where yarns retain all knots, lumps, and other imperfections.
Shetland Wool	A soft woolen fabric or knit made of Shetland wool from Scotland. Known for it's warmth.
Shirring	Gathering - usually at the waist of a skirt or the yoke of a blouse or dress.
Shirtwaist	Dress with top styled like a tailored shirt, usually buttoned from neck to waist, with either a full or straight skirt.
Silk	A strong lustrous natural fiber produced by the larvae of various insects. Silk is noted for its resilience, aesthetics, elasticity and strength. Can be knit or woven.
Soutache	A narrow flat braid of material used for borders and trim and for an all-over ornamental pattern.
Spandex®	A trade-marked manufactured stretch fiber composed of polyester - used for active-wear, foundation garments, hosiery, jeans, swimwear and other applications where its ability to stretch and recover are important.
Spectator shoe	Pump or oxford in two toned leather.
Stain Resistant	Any fabric possessing the ability to resist spots or stains - achieved through special finishes.
Stone washed	A dyed garment that has been treated by special washing - a process of achieving certain color effects using pumice stones or other abrasive materials.
Suede (swayd)	This is not a kind of leather but a kind of finish. The surface of the leather is buffed to create a fine nap that becomes suede. T
Taffeta (taf-eht-uh)	A fine plain weave fabric smooth on both sides, usually with a sheen on its surface mainly used for dresses.
Tapestry (tap-ehs-tree)	A heavy, woven fabric with decorative designs usually depicting floral or historical scenes - used for clothing and accessories.
Tartan	A twill-weave woolen plaid associated with Scottish highlanders each having its own distinctive pattern and colors. Uses include the kilt, sportswear and blankets.
Tattersall (tat-uhr-sohl)	A simple over-check pattern generally executed in two colors on a white or contrasting colored ground.
Tencel	A trade-marked name for a fiber composed of a rare blend of wood pulp and human technology. Made entirely from the natural cellulose found in wood pulp, which comes from trees grown especially for this purpose on managed tree farms. Because it is a natural fiber - it breathes, it absorbs, it cools, it warms. Sometimes it imitates silk.
Terry Cloth	A woven fabric usually cotton with a loop pile on one or both sides. The fabric is noted for its ability to absorb moisture. Usually used for towels, beach robes, summer clothing and loungewear. Can be knit or woven.
Textured	A term referencing to the appearance or hand of a fabric and especially such features as structure, coarseness, openness.
Thermal Knit	A waffle knit fabric that provides good insulation. Also a fashion fabric for casual sportswear.
Tissue Faille	A lightweight woven ribbed fabric with crosswise effect. It is soft to the touch and drapes well.
Trapunto	A type of quilting in which the quilted design stands in high relief against a lower background.
Tricot (tree-koh)	A fine knitted fabric with a satin-like finish most often used for women's lingerie and linings often made of nylon.
Twill	Identified by the diagonal lines in the fabric. It is a little heavier than sailcloth. Can be cotton, wool, silk or rayon.
Tweed	A class of woven fabrics with soft, subtle texture. Made in a variety of fabrics including wool, silk and synthetics. U
Ultra-suede	A trademarked non-woven suede like material. It's made to imitate real suede and is machine washable. V
Vamp	Length of toe on shoe - front part of shoe covering the toes.
Velour (veh-loor)	A warm soft cotton, cotton blend or nylon fabric similar to velvet that is knitted. Our velour is usually cut nap smooth up, for a richer color.
Velvet	Fabric raised on the surface and clipped to stand up and form a special rich texture. Can be of rayon or silk; can be cut into a jacquard pattern. Our velvet is usually cut nap smooth up for a richer color.
Vest	An item of wearing apparel extending to the waist or longer - similar to a sleeveless jacket usually worn over a blouse or shirt.
Viscose	Term applied to rayon fiber made by the process of using a cellulose xanthate solution.
Viyella (vy-ehl-uh)	Trade name for a lightweight British twill fabric produced in a 50/50 wool/cotton blend. W
Wash & Wear	A process that allows garments to be washed and re-worn with little or no ironing. A 60's term.
Water Repellent	A fabric which resists water but does not prevent penetration entirely. A water repellent fabric will give protection in a shower but not in a heavy rain.
Waterproof	A fabric possessing the ability to prevent penetration by water. Waterproof fabrics are tightly woven and coated with rubber, vinyl or other compounds.
Wool	A fabric from the fibers of sheep - produced all over the world. It can be woven, knitted or felted in various textures ranging from soft and sheer to sturdy overcoatings for cold weather wear. It is strong and resilient and has a broad affinity for dyes.
Wool Melton	A thick wool fabric with a smooth, dull, brushed surface used for coats.
Wool Crepe	A soft draping, rough or pebbly textured fabric. Threads are crimped in S or Z pattern to create a fabric which resists wrinkling, accommodates fullness by pleating or shirring.
Worsted Wool	Worsted fabrics are made from yarns which have been combed as well as carded. (Woolen yarns have only been carded.) Worsted fabrics wear better than woolen fabrics, resist pilling at points of wear and have a harder surface than woolens. X Y
Yarn-Dyed	The yarn is dyed before it is woven or knitted, as opposed to piece-dyed where the fabric is dyed after it is woven or knitted or garment-dyed where the garment is dyed after its made. Z